Wine Tours - Italy - Super Tuscans

The Super Tuscans and Grattamacco 's Pioneering Role

When you say Bolgheri, you say "Super Tuscans." But what does that term actually mean? And why is Grattamacco one of the most important names in this success story? During my visit to this iconic estate, we delved into the history of a region that forever changed the Italian wine world.

The Birth of the Super Tuscans: A Wine Revolution

In the 1960s and 1970s, Italian wine law (DOC) was entrenched in strict regulations. In Tuscany, a wine could only achieve the highest status if it was made with local grapes like Sangiovese. But a handful of headstrong winemakers on the coast noticed that the gravelly soil of Bolgheri looked suspiciously like that of Bordeaux.

They began experimenting with "forbidden" grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Because these wines didn't meet DOC regulations, they officially had to be sold as simple Vino da Tavola (table wine). However, the quality was so astonishing that international critics nicknamed them "Super Tuscans." It wasn't until 1994 that the region received its own recognition with the DOC Bolgheri.

Grattamacco: The Second Pioneer (since 1977)

While the world was just beginning to hear about Sassicaia (the first Super Tuscan), Piermario Meletti Cavallari settled on a hillside in Bolgheri in 1977. He founded Grattamacco , officially becoming the second winery in the region's history.

While many other estates in the 1980s and 1990s opted for an extremely international, almost "American" style (lots of new wood, extraction, and power), Grattamacco remained true to a more elegant profile. Since 2002, the estate has been owned by the Colleoni (Collemassari) family, who have further refined the organic philosophy and focus on terroir.

The Unique 'Grattamacco Style'

What distinguishes Grattamacco from giants like Ornellaia or Sassicaia is their stubborn love for Tuscan tradition:

1. Sangiovese in the Blend: In a region that has almost entirely switched to French grapes, Grattamacco is one of the few top estates that retains Sangiovese in their Bolgheri Superiore. This gives the wine higher acidity and a "heart" that is unmistakably Italian.

2. The Altitude: With vineyards at an altitude of 200 meters, they are significantly higher than many other estates in Bolgheri. The soil here is a complex mix of marl (calcareous clay), sandstone, and flysch. This results in wines with greater tension and minerality.

3. L'Alberello: Grattamacco boasts a unique vineyard planted according to the Alberello system (bush vines). This is highly unusual for Cabernet and Merlot, but it forces the plant to develop deep roots and produces grapes of enormous concentration.

Why this is important for you as a wine lover

Grattamacco's history teaches us that quality isn't always achieved by the loudest voice or the heaviest bottle. It's about understanding the soil and daring to deviate from the norm. As a vinologist, I appreciate Grattamacco because they bridge the gap between the power of modern Super Tuscans and the elegance of classic Tuscany.